Last week as you may recall, I shared a blog entry on digitizing black and white film on the Leica M Typ 246 Monochrom. As such, I shelved them to be used at a later date. So naturally, I never shared any of these photos, since this addendum of a photowalk did not yield sufficient content to satisfy my requirements for a blog entry. For that reason, half the roll were either out-of-focus or not exposed correctly. At the time, I had not yet acclimated back to the proper practice of film photography. They were taken at night after a photowalk for a review on the Canon RF 24-105mm f/4 IS USM. In your tonal settings, move the Whites Slider down somewhere around -25 to allow the toning to show through more in the brightest highlights.The photos on this blog entry are not examples of my best work.Increase the “range” all the way to 10 so that the toning just begins to reach into the shadows.

Drag the Blue/Yellow balance towards Yellow.

Click the highs tab in the color section to open up the Highlight Toning Panel.

If you like to adding “toning” to your black and white images, you can do that all within Negative Lab Pro – no need to export out to other programs.įor instance, to emulate an Ilford Warmtone style: But you can fully adjust this to suit your taste or to emulate the tonal range of darkroom prints. By default, Negative Lab Pro will normalize the image, so that it fits right up to the full tonal range of your monitor.

If you want to get more of a natural photographic paper look, I’d also recommend experimenting with the BlackClip and WhiteClip settings.

Don’t be afraid to make big changes here if that’s what it needs!

From there, the most important adjustments will be Brightness and Contrast.

It reverses out the gamma of black and white film, and I find it to be a nice, neutral starting point

Then TONE: Linear + Gamma – this uses a gamma curve that is the same gamma curve as black and white photographic paper.Everything zeroed out (you can hit the RESET button if you have a custom default setting that you use for color).When working with black and white, I like to start off with the following settings: Go ahead and hit that CONVERT NEGATIVES button!.When you open Negative Lab Pro, set Color Model: B+W – this is the most important step.You should crop out non-film elements (or use a suitable “Border Buffer” setting to keep them from being evaluated).The basic workflow for converting black and white in Negative Lab Pro is very easy.

Vuescan negative lab pro